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Day Eight:
Overnight south
of the turnpike, just west
of Fannetsburg.
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Day Nine:
Cowen's Gap
State Park, a couple miles
north of the lake.
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Day Ten:
Buchanon State
Forest, south of U.S. Route
30.
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Day Eleven:
State Game
Lands, on the long ridge
walk south of PA Route 16.
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Just north of the Turnpike the trail crosses the valley to the Tuscarora Mountain, which it follows for most of the rest
of its travels through Pennsylvania. The trail passes directly overtop the Tuscarora Tunnel on the turnpike, though the
tunnel is much too far below for the traffic to be heard. Above the tunnel on the mountain, turnpike workers are
constructing a new communications tower. I am forewarned: the trail will be rocky; but either it is much less rocky
than before, or I am becoming acclimated to the rocks.
At Fannetsburg I take most of a day to go into town for supplies and mail a letter. A local farmer invites me to lunch
at his house, with his family. Later on I discover that my mother knows them.
At Cowan's Gap State Park I take advantage of the campground to take a hot shower: two bucks seems well worth the price.
My clothes may smell but my hair is clean.
Crossing Route 30 is deja vu: I have been here before. When I was a small child we came back from Ohio this way
so that we might have ice cream in Chambersburg. I have a late-afternoon hamburger and fries at the Mountaintop Bar and
Grill. On the other side of the road I pass through an enchanted forest, with perhaps the best overlook of the entire
hike. There is a memorial plaque: someone else dearly loved these woods, and his family has made it available to the
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club in his memory. But it is getting late, and I press on looking for a camping spot.
Beyond Route 16 is a dozen miles along the ridge without roads or radar installations or broadcast towers: this is as
wilderness as you get in this part of the country. Needless to say there is also no water. When finally I come off of
the ridge and come to a springhouse, the water is as delicious as possibly it could be.
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